Friday, February 7, 2014

The Great Cow's Milk Debate

A few of us are right at the stage when our babies are turning one--they are transitioning away from breastmilk (or formula) and have been given the green light to drink cow's milk.  But we, and maybe you, have been wondering what benefits and risks come with cow's milk.  That's what this post is about.  Full disclosure: I have been an avid consumer of cow's milk and related dairy products all my life-- my husband and I, just the two of us, go through almost two gallons a week!  Researching the issues, though, has taught me a few things that I think will change that...there are a number of good reasons to consider limiting intake, or even eliminating it altogether, if you and your family are ready to take that leap; my family is on the baby-step plan! 

First: Why do we drink cow’s milk?
  • We are taught from a very early age that milk is part of a balanced diet and that it makes our bones and teeth strong. This message is reaffirmed by schools, health classes, the government, and many doctors, and especially by the dairy industry itself.
  • Milk does contain nutrients: protein, calcium, vitamins A and D (artificially added), and some omega 3s.  
  • Milk is satisfying.  In one fell swoop it supplies many things our bodies crave: water, protein, fat, and sugar. For this reason, it is sometimes cited as “nature’s perfect food” and as a great recovery drink after a workout.
  • We have emotional ties to milk! Few foods elicit as strong attachment as dairy products do; people are really passionate about milk, butter, cheese, ice cream, even yogurt.  All these things have an aura of luxury, indulgence, and happy times. 
  • Price might be a factor too: non-organic cow’s milk is less expensive than non-dairy alternatives. (Organic and grass-fed milk is roughly comparable in price to non-dairy milks).    
So, why would we ever decide NOT to drink cow's milk?
  • Maybe we experience bodily discomfort (i.e. lactose intolerance, allergies, bloating and gas, heartburn, etc.)
  • Maybe we feel concern about contaminating chemicals, hormones, and antibiotics.
  • Maybe we care about ethical treatment of the cows. The majority of milk produced in this country is from large-scale CAFO operations, where cows are perpetually confined to a tiny space for their entire lives and fed a corn-heavy (i.e. unnatural) diet to boost milk-production.  The conditions stress their bodies so much they only live 1/5 as long as they otherwise would. You can read more about that here.  Reducing milk consumption would make the purchase of organic or ethical sources more budget-friendly.
  • We might recognize that cow’s milk is NOT a “natural” part of the human diet—that is, we do not NEED it as a source of nutrition.  We did not evolve in symbiosis with cows, and there are no nutrients in milk that are not also available in a diet of varied, whole plant foods.  The majority of the world’s population does not drink milk (in fact, most people in the world are lactose intolerant) and these populations are surviving just fine--actually, in some ways better, with lower rates of cancer, diabetes, and heart disease).  
  • We might feel wary about the extremely powerful advertising and lobbying campaigns of the National Dairy Council, in partnership with the U.S. Government.  These groups are largely responsible for what gets taught about milk in the public education system, as well as in the Food Guide Pyramid (or Plate).  The UDC has a huge financial interest in convincing us that milk is necessary to our health and happiness. Red flag?
  • We are probably concerned about our long-term health. A large number of studies have linked dairy consumption to heart disease, various cancers including breast cancer, type-1 diabetes, osteoporosis (yep!), and autoimmune diseases including multiple sclerosis. Milk consumption is also linked to early onset of menstruation in girls, even milk from cows not treated with hormones.  (Check out the book The China Study, or read a summary of it here.)  
In short, there are a lot of good reasons to consider significantly reducing or eliminating dairy products. And luckily, there are a lot of non-dairy alternatives to help wean us off of them (It's also super-easy to make your own: stay tuned for another post!). However, just as we don’t NEED to drink milk, we don’t NEED any non-dairy milk to match its exact nutritional makeup.  A varied diet of whole plant foods will supply plenty of protein, calcium, fat, and sugar, and these can mix with water in our tummies!.  

If I do decide to continue incorporating dairy into my diet, what should I buy?

Skim, Whole, or somewhere in between?
Obviously, skim milk has less fat and saturated fat.  Some sources, though, see this skimming as “tinkering” with a natural product, and suggest that if you’re going to drink it you should opt for whole milk in order to ingest all of its nutrients (including the omega-3s.)  Drinking whole milk also makes you (and by you, I mean me) more aware of it as a “treat” instead of as a staple or a substitute for water.  Some recent studies have indicated that kids who drink whole milk show lower rates of overweightness and obesity than kids who drink skim….you can read more about that here and here. 
Regular, organic, or grass-fed?
To me, this question is partly about health and partly about ethics.  "Regular" milk is usually labeled if it is hormone-free (and a lot of it is), but still the cows are likely treated preemptively with antibiotics. They live in confined spaces on a corn-heavy diet, and their bodies are stressed by the demands of heavy milk-production.  The “organic” label means the milk should not contain antibiotics, hormones, or pesticides, and in general, it also means that the cows are allowed to graze at least part of the time, and that their feed is organic.  “Grass-fed” milk indicates that the cows are allowed to graze, but unless the milk is also certified “organic,” it may not meet all criteria for the organic label.  You can read more about those designations here. Many brands of grass-fed and organic milk are proud of their operations and run websites where you can find out specifics; see section below.
Pasteurized and homogenized?  Ultra-pasteurized?  Raw? 
I never cared about this until I learned how to make cheese—and now I care a lot!  Homogenization is purely cosmetic: it means that the milk has been shaken vigorously to reduce the size of the fat globules and distribute them in suspension (so that the cream doesn’t rise to the top, but stays suspended throughout).  There is no real need for this, since you can just shake it up yourself.  Pasteurization has to do with the temperature to which milk is heated in order to kill/reduce microbes and slow spoilage.  The higher the temperature, the longer the shelf-life…but also the greater the impact on milk’s other properties (including flavor, texture, and protein structure).  Raw milk has not been pasteurized (and thus is usually sought by cheesemakers, who will heat is precisely themselves), and ultra-pasteurized milk has been heated to very high temperatures.  I have come to care a LOT about this when it comes to whipping cream; most of what you can find in stores is ultra-pasteurized, and it has a greasy taste and mouthfeel.  It’s seriously worthwhile to search for cream that has not been ultra-pasteurized—you will notice a real difference!  Snowville Creamery sells amazing cream, but only in ½ gallon containers, so you might want to find several friends to share it with! 
What brands are best?       
This obviously depends on what aspects of your milk matter most to you.  As I said earlier, operations that are trying to make a positive difference in the dairy industry generally try to make it known (so that you will understand what you’re getting for the higher price you have to pay!).  Of course, be aware that money is at stake and you’re being marketed to, but do some research and see what these brands have to say for themselves (and what other sources say about them). 
I looked up two brands you're likely to find around Columbus: one local dairy (Snowville), and one national organic brand (Horizon).  I already had found lots of reasons to like Snowville Creamery products before looking into any of this (their awesome cream, and their refusal to use thickeners and stabilizers like carrageenan and guar gum), and after looking through their website I like them even more….they have a lot of information, including lengthy, detailed, but forthright answers to many important questions.  Their milk is not certified organic, but it is local and handled with care, and they seem willing to explain the reasoning behind their methods.  Also, Jeni’s ice cream uses their products. J Read more about them here.  The organic brand you are probably most familiar with is Horizon, which also has an extensive website.  You can read more about them here: 

So, (in case you're wondering), what’s my plan?
This is purely me, and everyone needs to decide what is best for themselves and their families.  I’ve gotta say, I still really love dairy and struggle with the thought of giving it up entirely… After all this reading and thinking, though, to me it makes sense at the very least to view dairy products in the same way I view soda, fruit juices, refined carbs, and meat: as a special something to be enjoyed mindfully, rather than as a staple I incorporate automatically.  Consuming less milk will mean I can better afford to support operations I respect.  And meanwhile, I'm having fun and learning a lot as I explore non-dairy alternatives!  So far, not too many complaints from home, either--as long as I don't mess (too much) with the husband's sacred bowl of cereal. :)   


1 comment:

  1. Kelli, thanks so much for the thorough report! Informative and change-inspiring!

    ReplyDelete